Punching Stitch Holes in Thick Bridle Leather
A saddle stitch can only be as straight as the holes under it. How to mark, punch and check stitch holes in thick English bridle leather, start to finish.
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Why Bridle Leather Is a Hard First Leather
Waxy, thick, stiff and slow to soften. A briefcase maker’s opinion on why bridle leather is a hard first leather, and why he still would not cut anything else.
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Reading a Bend Before You Pay for It
Thickness first, then the hand, then the flesh side, then the marks. A briefcase maker on reading a leather bend at the rack, and why a spotless one can lie.
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Hand Stitching or Rivets: What a Beginner Should Learn First
A card slot carries a card. A handle carries the whole case. A maker on when a beginner should trust a saddle stitch and when a rivet is the sounder joint.
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Cordwainers and Saddlers Were Never the Same Guild
London’s leather trades split into separate guilds six centuries ago. The divide between fine work and load-bearing work still shapes how leather goods are made.
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What a Portfolio Piece Is
I don’t build portfolio pieces to sell them. A wild Louisiana alligator portfolio — burgundy exterior, prune Italian vegetable-tanned lining, custom Italian solid brass hardware. What it is and why it exists.
